Culinary Class Wars (2024)

"Are they Squid Gaming us?"

Culinary Class Wars managed to highlight the Korean culinary world’s hierarchy without being mean spirited even with layers of ambition and main courses of egos served piled high. Chefs and judges Baek Jong Won and Anh Sung Jae were the ring masters who declared who stayed and who went home in this high stakes cooking competition.

Eighty chefs, many self-taught or working as street vendors or in average restaurants came to take on 20 professional fine dining chefs for a prize worth 3 million won/215,000 (USD). The chefs on the lower rung of the hierarchy were titled Black Spoons and only given nicknames. The professional chefs were given the title of White Spoons and their real names were used. Only 20 Black Spoons would move on to the next level after the first challenge. After the winnowing, Black Spoons went head-to-head against the White Spoons in ever demanding challenges.

My favorite challenge was the Blindfolded Challenge. I’ve seen too many cooking shows where the established chef is treated deferentially and preferentially. The Pros freaked out when their advantage diminished. With only their senses and not their sight, Baek and Anh had to determine which dish tasted best. For this alone, I gave the show a .5 bump. The Infinite Cooking Hell mission would be my second favorite as the chefs had to utilize the blandest ingredient I can think of in numerous dishes. Honestly, I would have preferred for this to have been the semi-final with ALL of the remaining chefs participating to see what they were truly made of. The final by comparison was a limp noodle and anti-climactic. At least have them make a three-course meal to demonstrate a range of skills.

If I have any other quibbles, it would be with the editing. The class wars took place there as well. The Black Spoons also had a hierarchy. Two of the female contestants I was invested in, had much shorter screen time than most of the male BSs. It wasn’t difficult to determine who would be the finalists due to the editing as some chefs were barely shown.* There were also a couple of conflict of interests, including using Baek’s products in one challenge. The Professional Chinese chef’s protégé was given several second chances which wasn’t a good look. The maneuvering to keep some contestants and the ratio of White Spoons vs Black Spoons even was over obvious. Also, thirty minutes to do the introductions in the first episode was overkill. I’d rather watch them cook.

The culinary social statuses were clearly delineated. Early on the White Spoons may have admired some of the cooking techniques they observed by the Black Spoons, but often acted superior as if their skills were untouchable. After all, many of them were award winning, well established, famous, and far removed from prepping the highest quality ingredients for the meals served in their restaurants. The Black Spoons were mostly chefs fighting for recognition and validation, true hustlers innovating with the ingredients available to them. I will nearly always root for the underdog, and cheered each time a BS took down a WS, even more so when the WS had a shocked look as they tried to process losing. My heart broke for one Black Spoon who beat a White Spoon and was so overcome he pulled a peasant in a Sageuk and kneeled head to the floor in respect and was never acknowledged by the old dude.

The White Spoons had only their egos on the line. At first, they didn’t seem too worried about the rookies. As the WSs began to hit the floor it became obvious the BSs had nothing to lose and were playing for keeps. They weren’t just fighting for prize money, they were fighting for recognition and to show they were worthy of respect. The biggest exception I had to the White Spoons was Edward Lee. He embodied not only a competitive spirit but also a humility unusual for someone skilled in discovering unique and clever flavors and presentations. I’m still a little salty that one of his dishes was significantly downgraded over his name for the dish and not the flavor. Now that is culinary elitism at its best.

Many of the Black Spoons knew their chances of winning were slim, but they still persevered to prove themselves to others and to themselves. Despite working in what would appear to be basic places with whatever ingredients they could afford, they took pride in their food and desired recognition. Often judged for their lack of fine dining skills, they still prepared delicious food. I’m okay with the winner though the result felt too scripted, a common drawback in most cooking competitions. I was just relieved they didn’t turn it into a Game of Thrones or Squid Games to make the show more dramatic. Watching chefs work to create delicious and memorable dishes was thrilling and entertaining enough.

"Once you start walking you have to go all the way through to the end." Edward Lee

16 November 2024
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#JusticeforTheLunchLady! I hated that her head-to-head competition with a White Spoon was barely shown. This was the biggest upset of that challenge for me! She survived several rounds and had very little screen time. She and Hanbok Auntie punched above their weight throughout the competition.

I did love the Italian chef's response when he lost, "Fabri always stays positive" while holding up finger hearts. And classy! I knew he was screwed when their ingredient to work with was skate.

While her attitude could sometimes grate, I had to admire Jung Ji Seon for her tenacity to become a famous chef in a profession often ruled by men.

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